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Monday, June 24, 2013

Mare Aux Cochons Hike


This weekend I decided to not stay in bed and finish season 3 of Game of Thrones. Instead, I went for a very hilly hike up to the highest marsh on Mahe, covering about 8 kilometers from Le Niol near Beau Vallon back to Port Launay. That's about 5 miles for you Americans. It was a gorgeous trip filled with a variety of terrains and temperatures though I'll say those 5 miles felt more like 10. I even saw my very first snake after being here in Seychelles for almost a year. No, I didn't scream nor did I run. I calmly took a photo while reminding myself that the snakes here are NOT poisonous and I had no reason to suddenly be feeling very nauseous and faint, it must just be the heat. The trail starts about 20 minutes up a very steep hill past the last bus stop in Le Niol and climbs up even higher to the highest point on Mahe that I have been so far. Luckily it was a fairly clear day, so we were able to see the incredible views across Beau Vallon bay before eating the clouds up even higher on our picnic lunch spot. It rained on us on the way down, which seemed appropriate as we were getting closer to Cap Ternay, which has its own microclimate and rains whenever the rest of Mahe is sunny. The trail actually ends in somebody's backyard next to a baca bar in Port Launay, just down the road from base at Cap Ternay. A baca bar is usually someone's house or a front patio, where men play dominoes and drink the local "baca" brew - a homemade fermented sugarcane drink that I was once told, "makes men shit their pants." No, we did not stop for a drink. After safely returning back to base, I immediately collapsed in bed and resumed Season 3 of Game of Thrones. At least now I earned my laziness. 

Looking down on Bel Ombre and Beau Vallon

Bel Ombre

Silhouette and North Islands on the horizon

Mountain above us

Tree Fern

AHHHHHHH!!!!! It is a tiny, little, harmless Seychelles snake. 

Ruins of an old cinnamon oil factory



The Trail

Picnic spot

Picnic spot

Clouds rolling in

No 'gators in this swamp

Swamp / Marsh, "Wetland of International Importance," if you will




This is what the trail down looked like. Lots of rocks, lots of slick moss. Fun!


Old house. I have NO IDEA how they built this up a steep, granitic trail
Less of a trail, more of a big granite slide into the forest. Don't worry, no one fell. 


Overlooking the Ephelia and Port Launay

Thursday, June 6, 2013

Island Hopping


Cousin

After a lovely trip to Texas spending time with family and friends (and BBQ and queso and really fast internet), I made it back home to Seychelles and promptly took a little weekend vacation to recover from my vacation to Texas. I had to recover from that jetlag somehow.  A group of us went island hopping and visited Cousin, an island that is reserved exclusively for the birds and a few island keepers (not to be confused with Cousine, the neighboring island with a 5-star resort); Praslin, the second largest island here in Seychelles and a short ferry ride away from us on Mahe. We also swung by Curieuse to say hello to the other GVI base on the way.  By noon on our first day, we had stepped foot on 4 islands including Mahe and had seen some beautiful birds, beaches, incredible views and said hello to some old GVI friends working on Cousin. Tough day. The second day involved a delicious breakfast overlooking the sea and another visit to Valley de Mai, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and home of the endemic Coco de Mer trees. I went there back in December, but it was raining and I didn't spend much time there. This time, it was a beautiful day and we walked up to the scenic overlook to get a great view of the entire place. Valley de Mai looks and feels a bit like Jurassic Park, I was just waiting for a Velociraptor to come crashing through the trees and tear one of us apart at any minute. Instead, a very nice German man stepped out of the trees and told us everything we ever wanted to know and some things we didn’t about the giant bronze gecko that lives on the Coco de Mer trees. They pee a lot when captured, in case you were wondering. Per usual, words can't do it all justice, so I'll stop typing and post the pictures already. 


Looking out on Curieuse, from Praslin

Beautiful Praslin

Boat coming out to get us to go to Cousin

Baby bird!

Another really special bird, so special, I can't remember the name of it

Looking out to Cousine, from Cousin

Cousin

Boat on beach on Cousin

Palm tree on Praslin

Cocktail bar on Praslin



Magic hour on Praslin

Sunset on Praslin

Rooftop cocktail bar


Best view I've ever had while eating breakfast

Coco de Mer tree at Valley de Mai

Male Coco de Mer Tree

Giant bronze gecko (sorry it is blurry!)

Little green gecko

Overlooking Valley de Mai

Valley De Mai, aka Jurassic Park


More Coco de Mer trees

The ol' feet on the beach photo

Lifeguard stand on Praslin

Sunset from the ferry ride home