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Friday, June 6, 2014

Long Time Gone: Two Years in Seychelles & My Next Adventure

Two years ago, I left the states to join a six month long marine conservation and divemaster internship program in Seychelles. I had no idea what to expect, I just wanted adventure, a break from my life, a challenge outside of my comfort zone and to meet some new people – all while living in one of the most beautiful countries in the world. A country that I had dreamed about since I was 15 and first saw pictures of those beautiful white sandy beaches, dramatic granite rocks and crystal clear blue topaz water on a calendar.  Since June 2012, I’ve had twenty-four months of simple living on this rock in the middle of the Indian Ocean to grow and change in many ways, some I expected, many I didn’t and things have turned out better than I could have ever imagined.

Almost exactly two years later, I am now wrapping up my life here and preparing to move back to the US of A.  As much as I have loved it out here, I have decided it is time for me to be closer to home again, near my family and friends and maybe try something that vaguely resembles a “normal” life for a little while. I got all of those things I asked for here in Seychelles, and so much more including 8 months as the community coordinator and almost a year as the base manager for the marine conservation project that I loved so much. I came out here with 4 dives and no experience in marine conservation nor any idea how to drive a boat. I am leaving with 400+ dives, 200+ hours driving the dive boat and can now name all the coral, most of the fish here in the Indian Ocean and tell you fun facts about green and hawksbill turtles that you never wanted to hear. Did you know that Seychelles is one of the only places in the world where Hawksbill turtles come ashore during the day to lay their eggs? Or that green turtles got their name because of the color of their fat? (Hint:  it’s green.) Fascinating, I know.  I’ve traveled to 6 of the 115 islands here in Seychelles (including 4 trips to my favorite island – Bird), took a trip to Tanzania and see the incredible wildlife roaming free in the Serengeti, spent a night looking up at Kilimanjaro, have dived all over Mahe with multiple turtles, a few sharks including one very impressive whale shark and a manta ray. I’ve lived with and worked with amazing people from all over the world whom I have learned so much from. Most of them Brits, and I have picked up a bit of their lingo, so apologies in advance for anyone I confuse with phrases like “cling film” and “stop winding me up” or “she’s just taking the piss out of you.” Don’t worry, soon I’ll be back to saying things like “hey y’all, I’m fixin’ to go to the store. Any y’all need anything? What kind o’ coke you want me to get?” Oh, and I met a very cute boy who makes me smile, a lot.

I will be very sad to leave this place, but am very excited about this next adventure in the homeland which starts when I land on American soil very soon. I will be in Texas for a bit, making the rounds and enjoying all those delicious culinary treats I have missed – Mexican food, Bluebell ice cream, Mexican food, a variety of fresh fruits & vegetables, Mexican food,  real BBQ, Mexican food – you get the idea. As for what I am doing next…….stay tuned, that is for another post that you won’t have to wait 6 months for, I promise.

Here are some of my favorite pictures from my time here in paradise, pictures will never truly do this beautiful country justice and I am incredibly lucky to have spent so much time here. 

Aerial of the Baie Ternay Marine Park and my home  and office for the past 2 years

Manta, the GVI dive boat


Dolphins! Seen on one of my best dives at Lighthouse

On the most photographed beach in Seychelles from my volunteer days

Snorkeling with Green turtles at Bird Island

This was early on in my diving career, before I perfected my buoyancy

Praslin with the staff. Could NOT have done my job without these two Lees, thank you guys for EVERYTHING!

View from the top of Cap Matoopa

Reef diver, the Underwater Centre Dive Boat

View from my flat in Beau Vallon
Sunset in Port Launay

Hawksbill hatchlings on Curieuse 

On top of the world with Charlotte

Sunset from the bay

Hanging out on Curieuse with Sam

View of Port Launay Marine Park from the "commute" to the bus stop


Baby tortoise!

Big tortoise on my first trip to Bird

Hanging out with the tortoises on my last trip to Bird

Giraffes in the Serengeti
Elephant on the way from the airstrip to the resort
Hanging out by the elephant watering hole
Me and that cute boy who makes me smile

Last trip to Bird Island

Sunset in the Baie Ternay Marine Park, my home and office for the past 2 years

Saturday, September 28, 2013

Finally, An Update


Home, sweet coconut trees at the gate to base

I realize it has been a while since I posted anything on this blog. I apologize. I’ve been too (fill in the blank with any two suggested words: happy/tired/busy/lazy) _____________ to update this. After at least two emails from concerned friends and family members, I decided to update this, as you are probably lacking in ridiculously beautiful island photos that will make/ruin your day.

Anse Royale

Anse Royale

Takamaka Beach

There have been a few changes since my last post.  I am now the base manager here at Cap Ternay. I know, I was shocked too. Last year, I came out here as a divemaster intern and met at the base manager and thought, wow, how did she get that job? Looks awesome (and hard), maybe someday I could do something like that.  Cut to a year later and I am. Crazy how things work out! The community coordinator job now belongs to the very talented and capable Charlotte who will do a better job that I ever did looking after all of the community programs and playing with the kids from the President’s Village. In fact, check out our latest fund raiser and support us here: http://www.justgiving.com/beachesofmahechallenge

I have a new title and new responsibilities, but everything else is pretty much the same. I work with super, awesome, amazing groups of volunteers and staff, live in a gorgeous country with some of the best beaches on earth (refer to CNN article here) and am so grateful to call the Baie Ternay Marine Park my office. My commute to work involves driving Manta, our well-loved dive boat.

Manta in Baie Ternay




I can’t walk past a souvenir shop without looking at all the coral for sale, identifying each one with their full names while mourning for the loss of each little coral polyp that give it’s life so it can sit on someone’s coffee table.

Pocillopora Pocillicoporidae, Stylophora Pocilloporidae, Acropora Acroporidae, just to name a few (and some giant clams)


I can’t walk through the fish market without doing a fish spot or looking for sharks. In fact some of the fish that we survey here are seen more often on the cement slabs in the market and rarely seen on our actual surveys. Here are a couple. 

Red Emperor Snapper


Longnose Emperor 

Guitar Shark :(


I drive on the other side of the road sitting on the wrong side of the car (at least for the Americans). I can cook slightly better than I did before, or at least can cook something edible for up to 32 people on short notice. And no, not just pasta red or pasta white.

My weekends involve going to “town” (Victoria) to stock up on supplies or exploring the island and visiting new, lovely beaches when it is sunny or catching up on movies and TV series when the weather isn’t so great. How have I not seen How I Met Your Mother before? Brilliant show.  Life here is simple and it is good. Wait, I take that back. Life here is great and keeps getting better.

I have rejoined the millennium and have a smartphone again, thanks to my awesome sister, so I can be a bit more in touch. I promise to keep posting photos and things to remind you all that I do still exist on the other side of the world. Much love from Seychelles!



Fish (fusiliers) in the back of a pickup truck

Veg market

Egg "aisle" at the market


Local fruit

Fancy anything flouro?

Fruit market

Fish market

One of the "malls" in Victoria


My favorite view on the island, on the walk to base from Port Launay





Saturday, July 13, 2013

One Year In Seychelles


My Office

I have officially been in Seychelles for one whole year, which is longer than the last 3 leases I signed on various apartments back in Texas. To celebrate this fact, I did my favorite thing a few weekends ago. I hopped on a bus down south (50 cents) and exited when I saw a beach I liked, found some cheap delicious takeaway ($5), ice cream ($1) and more beautiful beaches (free) and then wandered my way back to base taking photos along the way. It was very low tide, so I was able to walk along some beaches not normally exposed and enjoy the cool sand beneath my feet instead of dodging buses and crazy drivers along the narrow, winding roads. Along the way, I found a boat with inappropriate phrases, watched a dog leap around in the shallows chasing fish, went inside a beautiful church and walked at least 5 miles. I came back and sat on the "rock of doom" and enjoyed a beautiful sunset overlooking my home and office, Baie Ternay Marine Park while saying thank you for all of the incredible opportunities I’ve had here and for all of the amazing people I have met.  And in case you didn’t know – I have committed to staying here for at least one more full year. J  I can’t wait to see what this next year will bring.



In Texas, we have pick up trucks with inappropriate bumper sticks. In Seychelles, we have boats. 



Right eye

Left eye


Fishing boat



Fish trap, made of bamboo




That's a helicopter landing pad in the background. Must be nice. 



Beautiful beach in front of a hotel. Might have been stopped by the security guards and asked to leave. 


Local church

Fishing dog




Roadside prayer stop




Local shop


Inside a typical local shop


Another local shop, there are lots of these all along the roads. Kind of like a 7-11, but more chaotic and no slurpees.


Fishing boats, fancy smancy hotel villas in the background




Sunset in Baie Ternay

Sunset over Baie Ternay